Adjustable hemmer.



M. BALLQIN. ADJUSTAB'LE'HAMMER. Awucmpn man nov; a. 1.9,1 s. 1,254,875. Patented 1311.29, 191s. y 2 sains-SHEET i.

1N V ENTOR Maurice allz tililTED STATES PATENT OFFICE.y

MAURICE BLLUQ, 035 OAKLAND, CALFRNIA, ASSIGNOR TO NEUSTADTER BROS., 0F lt?? FRANCISC, CALIFORNIA, A CORPORATION F CALIFORNIA.

ADJUSTABLE HEMMEK To all whom it mcy concern;

Be it known that I, Minutos BALLIN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Galtland, in the countyo Alameda and. State of California., have invented new and useful improvements in Adjustable Hammers, ct

'which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to an adjustable liemmcr for sewing machines.

.n the .se :ing oi? factory made shirts Waists, overalls and like Wearing apparel, end particularly in sewing henis ot' varying widths on thesamc garment, it is common oractiee to rese "L to several operations as amv 1t is necessary to stop and change to different size hennners as the Work on the garment progresses.A The several operations add considerable cost to the production and general,

voutput as it not only interferes ivith the time .the necessity of stopping to change to dif- 'erent size helns.

Further objects `will hereinafter ppenr. The invention consists of the parts and the construction and combination. of parts hereinafter more fully described and cla med, having reference to the accompanying rai/rings 1n whlchz-d Figure l is a side elevation partly broken away, of a sewing machine showing the a,p

plicntion of the invention.

',1`1g; 2 is ay detailed plan viewr of the adjustable herinner and the connected mechanisin .whereby it is actuated.

' Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the lower l adjustable part 'of the hemmer.

Fig. 4 is a, similar view of the upper stai tipnary part of the hemmer.

Fig. 5 is a detailed perspective View showing position of. the adjustable hammer' Withrelation to thev presser foot and needle bar, l It" 6 is a'front view of a part of a garmen. showing different Widths of hems that may be producedby en 'adjustable hemrner. Fig. 7 is a side elevation ofthe connectlon 'Spccmcativn of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 29, 1918.

Application mea November 8, 1916. Serial No. 130,160.

formed between the lever 11 and the presser foot.

Fig. 8 is an end view of same, partly in section.

Referring to the drawings in detail, A indicates a vbed plate on a sewing machine, and 2 the upper frame or arm Which carries the needle bar 3, and the presser foot 4, with connected operating mechanism. Pivotally mounted below the bed plate A; at any suitable point, is a roclr shaft 5 on which is mounted a knee lever tl and a knee plate 7. The upper end of the linee lever is bent to forni a. cani 8 which is so positioned as to raise or lower a rocker arm 9 when the knee lever is swung 'with the rocker shaft.

Pivotally mounted on one side o'l the main frame or arm 2 as at 10, is a lifting lever 1l, one end of which is connected with the presser foot 4 in the usual manner, While the opposite end is connected to a lifting rod 12 and the rocker arm 9. The .knee lever to' getlier with the rocker arm, the lifting rod i.

and the lifting leverj form as a Whole what is known as the knee lift, and While this mechanism is employed 1n conjunctionwith the adjustable herinner forming the main subject matter of the present invention, I Wish it understood that it does not form any l,essential part thereof.

The adjustable hemmer consists of a stas tionary upper section 14 which is secured to and carried by a bracket plate 15 and a lower movable section 16 which is secured to4 and movable inunison with an arm. 17. .This arm consists of two sections 17 and 18 which are adjustably -connected as at 1 9 to permit the arm as a. Whole to be shortened or lcngthened as will hereinafter be described. vThe section 17 of the arm is slidably mounted in a bearing -20 formed on the bracket plate 15, While the section 18.011 the arm is pivotally connected as at 21 to a4 hook shaped rocker arm 22 which is pivotally mounted on the main bed plate Aas at 23.

Suitably secured 'on the lifting rod 12 is a conc shaped collar 24, and mounted on'one side of the arm 22, adjacent the pivotal point 23, is an adjusting screw25, by vwhich movement of the arm 22 is restricted in one di rection.

The lknee lifting mechanism previously described, has heretofore been used solely vfor the purpose of lifting the presser foot 4;

au ay from thc l'ced bar and the throat plate when work is to be inserted. This mechanism has been utilized inthe present instance.

for the purpose. of operating the adjustable hemmer.

This is accomplished in the following mannen-If it is desired to sew a wide hem such as indicated at 29, see Fig. 0, when commencing a seam, it is only necessary to press the knee lever 6 by means of the plate 7 into the vdotted line position shown at .7a. T11-is movement is transmitted through the rocker arm 9, the lifting rod l2, and the lifting lever 11 to raise the presser foot away from the throat plate and the feeding bar. The material to be hemmed or sewn is then inserted through the hemmer and under the presser foot to a point where the needle may engage. The knee plate is then slightly 'released to permit. it to assume the dotted line position shown at. 7", this movement is transmitted through the rocker arm and lifting rod to move the lifting rod to the dotted line position shown at 11'). The cone shaped collar 24 will here assume the dotted line position indicated at'24.b or a point just below the hook shaped arm 22. This arm will then assume the dotted line position indicated at 22a which is limited by the adjusting screw 25, the arm 22 being moved into this posi tion by means of a coiled spring 30 surrounding the pivot 23, said spring having one end attached to the bed plate of the machine and the opposite end to the lever as indicated at 31. This position of the arm 22 pulls the bar 17 together with the lower movable part of the herinner', to a position where the greatest width of hem may be obtained, for instance a hem such as shown at 29, see Fig. (i. If during the sewing operation it is desired to reduce the hem iu width, it will only be necessary to release the knee plate 7 and permit it to assume the full line position shown. This allows the rocker arm to assume its full line position, and the conc collar 24C to assume. the posi-tion where it. will engage the inne-r hook shaped end of the arm 22, and swing it about the pivot. to the full line position shown in Fig. 2. This forces the-bar 17 together with the lower part of the hammer, forward in the direction of the arrow ci, or to a point where a narrow hem will be produced such as indicated at 35, see Fig. 6.

The width of the. hem may be increased or decreased by adjusting the length of the bar 17 by means of the adjusting screw 19, the extreme width of the hem being also secured by the same adjustment.

If it is desired touse the henirncr as au ordinaryhemmer, and to render it inoperable when the knee lift is employed, it is only necessary to move the 'adjusting screw 25 to a point where it will-hold the lever 22 out of engagement. with the cone shaped collar 24. It is therefore possible to render the hemmer inoperable when desired, or to permit it to beadjusted to make a wide or narrow hem, merely by rocking the knee lifting lever 6.

In many instances it becomes more than a hemmer, for instance on shirt work in the making of French fronts now so generally used by the shirt trade, it becomes possible to make a complete front, in this manner saving three distinct operations which have heretofore been necessary, that is ruiming, turning, and stitching. The present hemmer permits the making of any desired width of stitch on the center plait, see Fig. 6, and automatically reduces the said hemm'er stitch t0 any degree of narrownessdesired, this bein done without even slowing down the machine, in other words, a change from a wide hem to a narrow hem can be made while running the machine at full speed by simply moving the knee lift in one direction or the other, said movement as previously described being transmitted through the lifting rod and the cone shaped collar 24, which in turn actuates the bar 17 and the attached lower section of the hemmer. p

It is therefore possible-to Sew seams of varying widths while working on a single garment. without stopping or4 resorting to other operations, in this manner not only saving the time of the operator, but also permitting the machine to be operated continuously. A product of superior quality is not only produced, but. the manufacturing cost is considerably less.

lVhile the adjustable hemmer is here shown as being controlled and operated by the knee lift, it is obvious that a separate foot treadle or any other suitable mechanism may be employed for the purpose of shifting the movable part of the hemmer. Similarly the materials and' nish of the several parts of the hammer and attached opera-ting mechanism may be such as the experience and judgment of the manufacturer may dictate. By referring to Figs. 7 and4 8, it will be seen that. no movement is transmitted to raise the presser foot except when the knee lift is moved to the extreme position shown at 7a. This is due to the fact that a pin 50, on the end of the lever 11, travels in a slotted bracket. 51 which carries the presser foot, thereby pre-venting the presser foot from being lifted while the knee lift is moved from the full line position shown in l vI claim and desire to secure by Letters Patand the needle on a `adjustable hemmer adapted to form hcms ent is--l l. The combination with the presser foot sewing machine of an adjustable hemmer adapted to form hems of varying widths positioned adjacent the presser foot, a manually operated lever mounted on the sewing machine and means connecting said lever with the hemmer to permit adjustment of the liemmer and changing of the width of the hem whilev sewinv of the hem is taking placev i 3, .`he combination with the presser foot and the needle on a sewing machine of a sectional hcmi'uer mounted adjacent the presser foot, said herinner comprising a stationary section and an adjustable section, and means for moving the adjustable section of the hcmmerto adjust the width of the hem whilevsewing of the hem is taking place.

et. The combination with the presser foot and the needle on a sowing machine of means 'for raising the presser foot, an adjustable hemmer mounted adjacent the presser foot and means actuated by the means for raising the presser' foot for adjusting the hemmer to vary, the width of the hem while sewing of the hem is taking place.

5. The combination with the presser foot on a sewing machine and means for lifting same, of a hemmer mounted adjacent; to the presser foot, said hemmer comprising a stationarysection and a movable section, and

means actuated by the foot-lifting means for moving the vmovable section of the hem- ;lner to increase or decrease the .width of a 6. The combination with ay sewing machine and the knee lift connected therewith, of an adjustable hemmer, and means actuated by the knee lift for adjusting the hemmer, said movement of the movable part of the hemmer being adapted to take'place hemmed is passing while the machine .while the material to be through the hemmer and is sewing.

7. The combination with the presser foot machine and means for lifting emmer mounted adjacent to thesaid hemmer comprising a sta.-

on a sewin same, of a presser foot,

tionar section and a movable section, a. slidab y mounted bar to which the movable hemmer section is attached, and means actuated by the foot-lifting means for imparting movement to the slidingbar'and the attached hemmer section.

8. The combination withthe presser foot on a sewing machine and the knee-lifting mechanism whereby it is lifted, of a hemmer mounted adjacent to the presser foot, said hemmer comprising a stationary section and a movable section, a slidably mounted ba'r to which the movable hemmer section is secured, pivotally mounted lever connected at one end with the bar, and means actuated by the knee-lifting mechanism engageable with he opposite end of the pivotally mounted ever,

9. The combination with the presser foot and the needle on a sewing machine of an adjustable" hemmer mounted adjacent the presser foot and the needle, manually operated means for raising and lowerng'the presser foot and means connecting said means with' the hemmer to permit adjustment thereof to change the width of the bien while sewing of the hem is taking place.

l0. The combination with the presser foot and the needle on a sewing machine, of a sectional hemmor mounted adjacent to the ioot and the needle, said hemmer comprising a stationary section and a movable section, a lever Apivotally mounted on the ma chine, and means connecting said lever with the movable section of the hemmer to ermit said movable section to be move to adjust the width of the hem while sewing of thehem is taking place.

l1. The combination with the presser foot and the needle on a sewing machine, of a sectional hemmer mounted adjacent tothe foot and the needle, said hemmer comprising a stationary section and a movable section, a knee-actuated lever pivotally mounted on the machine, a vertically positioned rod adapted to be raised or lowered by the knee-actuated lever, a cam on the rod, a second lever pivotally mounted on the machine adapted to be engaged and rocked about its pivot by the cam, and a link con necting said lever with the movable section of the hemmer. j

in testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing wltnesses.

l MAURICE BALL'IN. Witnesses A. J. HENRY, FRANCES V. Conn. 

